Steamy Buns and Freezing Buns

This post will highlight two of the less than desirables of my experience thus far in Taiwan. The first is found in a little gathering of street vendors about a mile away called the night market. Although it is pretty easy to find with some simple instructions, a more dependable way to get there is to follow the scent of what Annie and I endearingly call (please pardon the language) “bum-cheek tofu”. The locals call it stinky tofu because it smells like rotting meat mixed with manure. It’s a fermented tofu that fills the air, cuts through your lungs, and destroys any thought you ever had of eating. (New diet idea: stinky tofu air fresheners?) I think I’ve developed an aversion to the smell because if I ever get a whiff, my stomach starts to turn. Add to the smell this lovely array of every part of the animal you never wanted to eat, and you got yourself a meal!

Luckily, despite the delicacies that I have yet to develop a taste for, there really are quite a few delicious dishes here in Taiwan. My favorite by far comes from a little street vendor in downtown Hualien. Our boss Yuling took us there on our first Saturday and we not only gobbled these up but have craved them every day since. I’ve had steamed dumplings before but this was my first time eating a Taiwanese steamed bun. This sticky Wonder Bread ball is full of meat or vegetables and somehow melts in your mouth. Pauline, we are saving one for you.

Scouts might relate a little better to the second less desirable than other people. Imagine a winter campout in a tin barn with 70% humidity and only a space heater the size of a postage stamp. That would pretty much sum up my sleeping situation here. Annie and I have been basically freezing since we’ve come. It’s that humid cold you always hear about, the type that literally cuts you to the bone. Warm herbal teas, seven layers of jackets, two pairs of socks, multiple pajama pants, and ski hats have really come in handy over these last few weeks. Needless to say, we are excited for the sun to come out (and yes, I do give you permission to send this post back to me when I am complaining about the sweltering heat in a couple of months).